In the dwindling sunlight, I find myself stepping onto the cobbled streets of Savamala, a once-forgotten part of Belgrade now experiencing a cultural resurgence. My anticipation grows with every step, spurred on by the city’s reputation for eclectic nightlife offerings. I can already sense Savamala’s unique energy beckoning me to explore.
Walking along the banks of the Sava River, I am greeted by the sight of the Old Sava Bridge, a relic of Belgrade’s storied past. The fading daylight casts an ethereal glow on the structure, and I cannot help but marvel at the juxtaposition of the old and the new in this corner of the city. I make my way towards the heart of Savamala, my curiosity piqued, and my senses sharpened.
My first stop is Mikser House, an industrial space repurposed into a cultural centre, where I’m told I can enjoy a drink while immersing myself in the local art scene. As I enter, I’m struck by the sound of laughter and the low hum of conversation, which fills the air like an infectious melody. I order a glass of Rakija, a potent local brandy, from the bar and take a seat on one of the mismatched chairs scattered throughout the space.
As I sip my drink, a woman with a camera slung around her neck approaches me. “Do you mind if I take your picture?” she asks, her words accented but clear. “I’m working on a series about people in Savamala.”
“Of course,” I reply, “but I’m not from here.”
“You are people in Savamala, yes?” she laughs.
We strike up a conversation about her project. She tells me her name is Jelena, and she’s a local photographer chronicling the evolution of Savamala through the eyes of locals and visitors alike. I ask her for recommendations on where to go next, and she suggests KC Grad, a nearby cultural centre known for its live music.
Following Jelena’s advice, I make my way to KC Grad, where I’m immediately enveloped in the sound of a jazz band performing on a small stage. The dimly lit room is filled with people swaying to the music, their faces illuminated by the warm glow of the stage lights. I find a spot near the back and allow the music to wash over me, feeling the rhythm of the city pulsing through my veins.
After the band finishes their set, I chat with the bassist, a tall, lanky man named Ivan. “You should check out Mladost & Ludost,” he suggests. “It’s a unique place – two bars in one. Mladost is a lounge bar, and Ludost is more of a club. They’re right next to each other.”
Thanking Ivan, I again hit Savamala’s cobblestoned streets and head towards the bars he mentioned. As promised, Mladost offers a serene atmosphere with low-slung couches and ambient lighting. I order a craft beer and watch the people around me, their conversations a soft murmur against the backdrop of downtempo music.
Feeling the need for something more energetic, I move next door to Ludost. The thumping bassline from the DJ’s set reverberates through my chest as I step into the crowded room. Soon, I find myself sweaty and heaving in unison with the strangers I’m surrounded by on the packed dancefloor. I don’t feel the need to attempt chatting to anyone here, as our smiles and dance moves speak a universal language. The music unites us.
As the Ludost crowd begins to wane, I decide to depart and make one final stop at Ben Akiba, an art gallery and comedy club Jelena had mentioned earlier. The brick walls, adorned with vibrant paintings, provide a fitting backdrop for the stand-up comedians who take turns sharing their humorous observations about life in Belgrade
The laughter of the audience, mingling with the scent of strong coffee, forms a comforting embrace as I settle into a seat near the stage. Between acts, I strike up a conversation with a couple seated next to me. Aleksandar and Marija, both Belgrade natives, are regulars at Ben Akiba. They share stories of the city’s transformation and their love for the vibrant spirit of Savamala. I find myself captivated by their tales and drawn even more deeply into the essence of this enigmatic district.
The night wears on, and I leave Ben Akiba with a renewed sense of connection to Belgrade and its people. As I wander back towards my accommodation, the streets of Savamala are bathed in the soft glow of streetlights. The hum of the city has quieted, but the memories of the people I’ve met and the places I’ve discovered during my night out in Savamala will stay with me.
Belgrade, a city steeped in history and layered with complexity, reveals itself to those who take the time to explore its many facets. Through a single night in Savamala, I feel as though I have glimpsed the heart of the city and connected with its soul. And as I drift off to sleep, I am grateful for the experiences, the conversations, and the connections that have made this night in Savamala an unforgettable journey.
For those looking to immerse themselves in the city’s vibrant nightlife and culture, a night out in Savamala offers a unique and unforgettable experience.
